What a great weekend!
Zoozy Sue’s birthday, so we decided to celebrate it in Malealea lodge where we could do horse riding. The lodge was very atmospheric and friendly. We stayed in little traditional mokhoro’s (round huts) big enough for two - three people. Lovely to catch up with the “urban” Mafeteng crew and hear news. Compared to us they have both INTERNET!!! and Shoprite, a well stocked supermarket with cheese!
We hired a combi to take us the 3h journey to the lodge, viewing an amazing sunset over the stunning Lesotho mountains along the way. The beauty of this country is difficult to describe and I wished I could show you some pictures. Hopefully soon…
Saturday we spent on horseback. We rode through beautiful mountain landscapes, up steep ridges and down river passes, to a long drop waterfall for a swim. Here I met a fellow Norwegian randomly! In the afternoon we climbed through a proper “Lion King” landscape with huge rocks and ridges, even an echo cave, to see some 25 000 y old rock paintings. They were not even barred of, so we could go straight over to them and touch. Not overly touristy here!
Another fascinating thing about riding through this landscape is that you realize there are villages around you that blends so perfectly into nature that you can’t see them. People pop up from nowhere, carrying out their daily life, platting each others hair, having a chat with the neighbor or riding to the village for supplies.
Reaching back to the lodge we were pretty knackered and sore bummed after 7 hours of baking sun and newly learnt trotting skills, but a birthday party was still to be had. To cut a long story short, it ended in a very jolly night with lodgers from all over the world joining in on communal sing a songs. I have to say the Welsh and Irish where the most impressive, putting the rest of us to shame with their Folk tunes and choir skills.
Sunday is not too much to say about, apart from that the salty breakfast tasted good and the journey back was painfully long.
… Hope I get to an internet soon as I really miss hearing news from back home and want to update you guys on what I’m up to here.
Salang hantle!
Saturday, March 8, 2008
The cannibals – A true story
In the 1800 century poverty was severe in Lesotho and some people chose to become Cannibals to survive. They moved into caves in the mountains and only came down to the villages to catch people for food. The villagers were… understandably… petrified to walk around on their own in fear of becoming today’s special on the menu… and never went out after dark. The story has it that they had a ropes outside their caves attached to catchments nets!!! (Those Donald Duck pocketbook writers had really done their research…) so when it tightened and shook they knew that a new victim was caught.
If you happened to be one of the unlucky ones you had two hopes:
One - If you were a quick runner, you’d be used for catching new food. (I can just picture them sprinting down the mountain, grab a few unfortunate ones and run back up again to put them in the pot).
Two - If you were beautiful, you’d become the Kings new wife. (I guess better than being eaten).
The other day I saw a painting of them. They look pretty grotesque, munching away on their breakfast human skull. A bit more hardcore than Norwegian sheep heads.
… Here I have to add that sharing your lunchbox with colleagues isn’t always the most pleasurable experience, although I’m learning a lot about the local cuisine and generally enjoy it a lot. I am a true believer in eating the entire animal when you’ve first killed it; but I have to say I’m struggling a bit over the chicken necks, intestine tubes (looking VERY similar to worms) and chicken hearts which they so kindly offer me.
*
The Mohale’s Hoek chief came on an unannounced visit today, to check up on our bites and the house (and probably our biscuit tin). Very nice of him!
He cracks me up laughing every time he’s around, sitting there squinting and picking his nose as he’s talking. But really, he is a very lovely and respectful man. He is a retired policeman and is very involved in community issues like teenage drinking, pregnancies and HIV/AIDS.
As the protective dad of 4 girls, he told us that a lebolla (brides price) under 30 cows would not be accepted from his side. The bailers would have to fork out big style. Molikeng, that has helped fixing a few things in the house, were flashing his eyes in the background, mumbling that 10 cows is the going rate and more than enough; he’s still paying installments to his parents in law after a 2 years of marriage.
School’s been ok. Now teaching 2 hours English in Class 1 every day and most days 2 lessons of Art. I’m very pleased to learn how to teach basic reading and writing skills as I’ve never done it before, and the children are learning quickly.
They are quite naughty though, mostly because they’ve realized I’m not going to beat them like the other teachers. It’s hard competing with all the beating, because the children don’t know any other way of punishment. They think everything I do is a game, but slowly and surely they are responding to the “deadly stare” and the “don’t disappoint me” look.
Hopefully my colleagues will take notice and realize there are other methods than the stick, as it is agonizing to see the children being properly smacked around the head and hands or pinched in the arm or ears for very insignificant things.
Looking forward to the weekend when we are celebrating Sue’s birthday at the Malealea Lodge!
If you happened to be one of the unlucky ones you had two hopes:
One - If you were a quick runner, you’d be used for catching new food. (I can just picture them sprinting down the mountain, grab a few unfortunate ones and run back up again to put them in the pot).
Two - If you were beautiful, you’d become the Kings new wife. (I guess better than being eaten).
The other day I saw a painting of them. They look pretty grotesque, munching away on their breakfast human skull. A bit more hardcore than Norwegian sheep heads.
… Here I have to add that sharing your lunchbox with colleagues isn’t always the most pleasurable experience, although I’m learning a lot about the local cuisine and generally enjoy it a lot. I am a true believer in eating the entire animal when you’ve first killed it; but I have to say I’m struggling a bit over the chicken necks, intestine tubes (looking VERY similar to worms) and chicken hearts which they so kindly offer me.
*
The Mohale’s Hoek chief came on an unannounced visit today, to check up on our bites and the house (and probably our biscuit tin). Very nice of him!
He cracks me up laughing every time he’s around, sitting there squinting and picking his nose as he’s talking. But really, he is a very lovely and respectful man. He is a retired policeman and is very involved in community issues like teenage drinking, pregnancies and HIV/AIDS.
As the protective dad of 4 girls, he told us that a lebolla (brides price) under 30 cows would not be accepted from his side. The bailers would have to fork out big style. Molikeng, that has helped fixing a few things in the house, were flashing his eyes in the background, mumbling that 10 cows is the going rate and more than enough; he’s still paying installments to his parents in law after a 2 years of marriage.
School’s been ok. Now teaching 2 hours English in Class 1 every day and most days 2 lessons of Art. I’m very pleased to learn how to teach basic reading and writing skills as I’ve never done it before, and the children are learning quickly.
They are quite naughty though, mostly because they’ve realized I’m not going to beat them like the other teachers. It’s hard competing with all the beating, because the children don’t know any other way of punishment. They think everything I do is a game, but slowly and surely they are responding to the “deadly stare” and the “don’t disappoint me” look.
Hopefully my colleagues will take notice and realize there are other methods than the stick, as it is agonizing to see the children being properly smacked around the head and hands or pinched in the arm or ears for very insignificant things.
Looking forward to the weekend when we are celebrating Sue’s birthday at the Malealea Lodge!
South Africa, water and cannibals.
So, after the shopping spree in South African Bloemfontein, it was a relief getting back to Lesotho. The people are much friendlier and more open here and the natural beauty of this country is unbeatable… saying a girl from Norway. Also I find that the Basotho people live in tune with nature and have a strong community spirit, while Bloemfountein felt a little like being on a Hollywood film set with staged white people living the “perfect” lifestyle… In the middle of Africa. Apparently there have been racially motivated demonstrations recently in this town and it doesn’t surprise me, having felt the atmosphere in this town.
Church is a very important part of people’s life in Lesotho, just as much for the community spirit as the religion I’d say. This is where people meet, and almost every weekend our colleagues will go to either weddings or funerals. Not that I think that many more people get married or die here than back home, but people seem to participate in everyone’s services. “We can’t say no to the free food!” my deputy head explained… That just before we were holding a “St. David’s day” party for our colleagues, hoping for a joint effort on the food front…
God knows how people can afford holding these massive parties, as they are expected to provide the food (which has to be meat) and alcohol for all the guests.
*
It is a relief being back in our house! It feels much cleaner now as we’ve thrown away the heavy dusty curtains, dried flower arrangements and random plastic decorations. New bed sheets and mattresses also helped.
Our posh house has electricity, indoor toilet and hot + cold water compared to our neighbors. They seemed very impressed. The only thing is that our area often has a water shortage because of the many thunderstorms!?! Yeah, with all this water streaming down it doesn’t make sense, but apparently the water pumps are turned off during rainfall because the pumps brake when they get mud stuck in them. And mud there is A LOT OF here. Brings back those happy summer festival feelings, sliding around in flip flops!
Anyway, this means that a lot of the time there is no water at all in the taps, hot or cold, neither in our Water Closet! So, really, we’d probably be better off with an outdoor toilet… We’ve become very good at “showering” in a small bath tub and I decide to not mention the state of our hair. I’ve really started considering dreads! Drinking water we fetch in real African style in big containers at the communal borehole tap by my school.
I don’t mind doing this as we really experience how valuable water is and learn not to waste it.
This weekend Catherine’s friends have visited from UK. It’s been great to read the gossip magz and… ohh… News! There really is a world out there!?!
Today we took our guests for a real taste of Mohale’s Hoek… the Cannibal Caves!
We started up with 8 of us and ended in about 25 people, children and adults joining us on the way. It turned into a great party of games, dancing, songs and cream crackersJ as we reached the caves… so we kind of forgot about the cannibals altogether. Further research need to be done!
Church is a very important part of people’s life in Lesotho, just as much for the community spirit as the religion I’d say. This is where people meet, and almost every weekend our colleagues will go to either weddings or funerals. Not that I think that many more people get married or die here than back home, but people seem to participate in everyone’s services. “We can’t say no to the free food!” my deputy head explained… That just before we were holding a “St. David’s day” party for our colleagues, hoping for a joint effort on the food front…
God knows how people can afford holding these massive parties, as they are expected to provide the food (which has to be meat) and alcohol for all the guests.
*
It is a relief being back in our house! It feels much cleaner now as we’ve thrown away the heavy dusty curtains, dried flower arrangements and random plastic decorations. New bed sheets and mattresses also helped.
Our posh house has electricity, indoor toilet and hot + cold water compared to our neighbors. They seemed very impressed. The only thing is that our area often has a water shortage because of the many thunderstorms!?! Yeah, with all this water streaming down it doesn’t make sense, but apparently the water pumps are turned off during rainfall because the pumps brake when they get mud stuck in them. And mud there is A LOT OF here. Brings back those happy summer festival feelings, sliding around in flip flops!
Anyway, this means that a lot of the time there is no water at all in the taps, hot or cold, neither in our Water Closet! So, really, we’d probably be better off with an outdoor toilet… We’ve become very good at “showering” in a small bath tub and I decide to not mention the state of our hair. I’ve really started considering dreads! Drinking water we fetch in real African style in big containers at the communal borehole tap by my school.
I don’t mind doing this as we really experience how valuable water is and learn not to waste it.
This weekend Catherine’s friends have visited from UK. It’s been great to read the gossip magz and… ohh… News! There really is a world out there!?!
Today we took our guests for a real taste of Mohale’s Hoek… the Cannibal Caves!
We started up with 8 of us and ended in about 25 people, children and adults joining us on the way. It turned into a great party of games, dancing, songs and cream crackersJ as we reached the caves… so we kind of forgot about the cannibals altogether. Further research need to be done!
The bug story – chapter 2
Ok – So it wasn’t animal lice after all!
After internet research in Maseru we decided on bed bugs. Not the easiest bugs to get rid of, apparently, but after all the work done to the house including fumigation, painting, varnishing and carpet cleaning, we hope they are long gone! ALL our clothes have been washed and ironed and we are getting new mattresses and bed sheets. We’re moving back in after a trip to Maseru to renew our visas and a shopping spree in South African Bloemfountein.
On Sunday we were invited to a meeting with the people of Mathlakeng, our neighborhood. It was held on a grassy patch in the end of the village. First hardly anyone turned up because of a torrential thunderstorm, but when the rain had stopped the Chief himself appeared, and we, the four white girls, were sat down on white plastic chairs in the middle of the circle. Proper modern twist tribal style!!! This was followed by a long speech in Sesotho, where people nodded and agreed. We smiled and nodded back, hoping for the best. (…hmm, didn’t they use to have cannibals in this area!!??!) Then we were asked to speak… They seem to accept our smiles and thank you’s, and we were officially welcomed to the area and dismissed from the meeting.
We were taken back to the hotel on the back of Frans, our South African handyman, bakkie. He and his family have been very kind and helpful to us when this bug story really kicked off, and it’s good to know that people are looking out for us, even though we find the Afrikaans way of treating the local people hard to swallow. Hopefully we can influence at least their children a little when it comes to racial equality!
School is good some days and frustrating others. It is hard to teach little 6-7 y olds when you can’t speak their language and they run riots around you. But they are very willing to learn, and respond very quickly to songs and rhythms. Like Norwegians born with skis on their feet, these children must have popped out dancing and singing. They are used to copy everything the teacher says, so I have a class echo every time I open my mouth. Even my mimics are thoroughly copied. Now the little 6 y olds are walking around greeting each other “Hello” “How are you?” “I am very well thank you, and how are you?” in a high pitch voice. Comic!
Sometimes I think the children make bets on us whities, as we experience children running up to us to touch the “mohora’s” skin, then sprinting away giggling. We’ve also heard that our hair is worth 10 rand a straw, as it is used in traditional medicine to make people rich! Great to know in case our funds run low… but thinking of my financial situation at home I’m worried the medicine will turn out to be a bad batch.
I hope you are all fine! I have to admit that I feel homesick now and again and that I miss you all, even though it is a great adventure being here.
x
After internet research in Maseru we decided on bed bugs. Not the easiest bugs to get rid of, apparently, but after all the work done to the house including fumigation, painting, varnishing and carpet cleaning, we hope they are long gone! ALL our clothes have been washed and ironed and we are getting new mattresses and bed sheets. We’re moving back in after a trip to Maseru to renew our visas and a shopping spree in South African Bloemfountein.
On Sunday we were invited to a meeting with the people of Mathlakeng, our neighborhood. It was held on a grassy patch in the end of the village. First hardly anyone turned up because of a torrential thunderstorm, but when the rain had stopped the Chief himself appeared, and we, the four white girls, were sat down on white plastic chairs in the middle of the circle. Proper modern twist tribal style!!! This was followed by a long speech in Sesotho, where people nodded and agreed. We smiled and nodded back, hoping for the best. (…hmm, didn’t they use to have cannibals in this area!!??!) Then we were asked to speak… They seem to accept our smiles and thank you’s, and we were officially welcomed to the area and dismissed from the meeting.
We were taken back to the hotel on the back of Frans, our South African handyman, bakkie. He and his family have been very kind and helpful to us when this bug story really kicked off, and it’s good to know that people are looking out for us, even though we find the Afrikaans way of treating the local people hard to swallow. Hopefully we can influence at least their children a little when it comes to racial equality!
School is good some days and frustrating others. It is hard to teach little 6-7 y olds when you can’t speak their language and they run riots around you. But they are very willing to learn, and respond very quickly to songs and rhythms. Like Norwegians born with skis on their feet, these children must have popped out dancing and singing. They are used to copy everything the teacher says, so I have a class echo every time I open my mouth. Even my mimics are thoroughly copied. Now the little 6 y olds are walking around greeting each other “Hello” “How are you?” “I am very well thank you, and how are you?” in a high pitch voice. Comic!
Sometimes I think the children make bets on us whities, as we experience children running up to us to touch the “mohora’s” skin, then sprinting away giggling. We’ve also heard that our hair is worth 10 rand a straw, as it is used in traditional medicine to make people rich! Great to know in case our funds run low… but thinking of my financial situation at home I’m worried the medicine will turn out to be a bad batch.
I hope you are all fine! I have to admit that I feel homesick now and again and that I miss you all, even though it is a great adventure being here.
x
Saturday, February 2, 2008
First teaching week
My first experience teaching the young ones (6-7 y) today. Interesting! They don’t understand a lot of English, so I’m becoming very good at singing silly songs and doing clapping games. I love the art lessons! It is becoming clear that the children are NOT used to using their creativity and independent thought in school (picture our schools 50-100 years ago), so the challenge will be to “defrost” them a little and getting them to believe in their own thoughts and ideas.
My principle started first day in school reading out a letter from the Chief of Mohale’s Hoek pleading the pupils to stay away from drinking and unhealthy living. (Same guy that was pissed when he came to our house) She also told the teachers not to use corporal punishment, something very common here BUT actually illegal. Already seen a few slaps, and the stick is out most of the time! As adults, so children…I have had to lay down the rule in my classes… any child that hits, beats or kicks another will not be taught by me!
So far our experience with the wildlife of Africa has encountered the Wild Life of crawling insects in our rooms. The problem has become more serious as the week has passed. First Danielle and me got covered in rashes, something we though was an allergic reaction to new bacterias, but then Rachel and Catherine got them too. We were told by the doctor it was bed bugs! …and yes we had to admit we had seen a few crawling creatures. So, we got the house fumigated, but it didn’t seem to work. Things were still crawling around. Then our South African lock fitter came to the house. He stated that the little darlings were not bed bugs but animal lice!!!!!!!!!!! … and that we should get ourselves out of this house as soon as possible! Our organization has now moved us into the posh… and only… hotel in town, while our house and all our belongings are thoroughly poisoned and washed, the walls painted and carpets rinsed!
In the weekend we are going to Maseru to watch England-Wales playing rugby and shop for new bedding and mattresses and hopefully in the start of next week we’ll be back on track again. The very good thing that’s come out of this week is that we’ve met a bunch of very kind, helpful and reliable people, so we feel very safe and looked after. We’ve also had a chance to hang out by a pool, get a sun tan and eat lovely foodJ.
So don’t worry about us back home! We are in good spirit and are looking forward to new (but hopefully less crawly) adventures.
Miss you all!
My first experience teaching the young ones (6-7 y) today. Interesting! They don’t understand a lot of English, so I’m becoming very good at singing silly songs and doing clapping games. I love the art lessons! It is becoming clear that the children are NOT used to using their creativity and independent thought in school (picture our schools 50-100 years ago), so the challenge will be to “defrost” them a little and getting them to believe in their own thoughts and ideas.
My principle started first day in school reading out a letter from the Chief of Mohale’s Hoek pleading the pupils to stay away from drinking and unhealthy living. (Same guy that was pissed when he came to our house) She also told the teachers not to use corporal punishment, something very common here BUT actually illegal. Already seen a few slaps, and the stick is out most of the time! As adults, so children…I have had to lay down the rule in my classes… any child that hits, beats or kicks another will not be taught by me!
So far our experience with the wildlife of Africa has encountered the Wild Life of crawling insects in our rooms. The problem has become more serious as the week has passed. First Danielle and me got covered in rashes, something we though was an allergic reaction to new bacterias, but then Rachel and Catherine got them too. We were told by the doctor it was bed bugs! …and yes we had to admit we had seen a few crawling creatures. So, we got the house fumigated, but it didn’t seem to work. Things were still crawling around. Then our South African lock fitter came to the house. He stated that the little darlings were not bed bugs but animal lice!!!!!!!!!!! … and that we should get ourselves out of this house as soon as possible! Our organization has now moved us into the posh… and only… hotel in town, while our house and all our belongings are thoroughly poisoned and washed, the walls painted and carpets rinsed!
In the weekend we are going to Maseru to watch England-Wales playing rugby and shop for new bedding and mattresses and hopefully in the start of next week we’ll be back on track again. The very good thing that’s come out of this week is that we’ve met a bunch of very kind, helpful and reliable people, so we feel very safe and looked after. We’ve also had a chance to hang out by a pool, get a sun tan and eat lovely foodJ.
So don’t worry about us back home! We are in good spirit and are looking forward to new (but hopefully less crawly) adventures.
Miss you all!
Arriving Mohale’s Hoek
We arrived to our house in Mohale’s Hoek during one of the many torrential rainstorms here. Under the thunder and lightning we ran with all our bags and suitcases, while our drivers/helpers were having a nap in the front seat of the combi (minibus type car). Great, big house, and all fine after Me Lineo, our Lesotho-Wales Link representative, talked our landlady out of having her sister living in our garage!
Our neighborhood is very welcoming. Colleagues, neighbors and pupils are all looking out for us and we are not often left alone in the house… or when we go shopping. We’ve got many new friends, especially round dinner time, but people are also very good at sharing and are opening their homes for us any time.
A few days ago we had the Chief himself coming to meet us. Very comic, as he’d obviously had a good few drinks before coming and didn’t make too much senseJ.
The first day in town we were taken straight to the District Administrators office (picture a scene from “The Last King of Scotland”), as well as the police station and a meeting in the District Education Office. All to the benefit of our safety! And safe we feel, especially after receiving 4 emergency numbers to the police, in case we can’t get through on one of them…
The first week in school has been painfully slow, as the teachers don’t do their planning before the children arrive. This meaning the children are left to themselves a lot of the time. I’ve spent the week observing different classes, trying to learn the teacher’s names (with little luck so far… Me Moroahae, Me Matumelo, Me Mararararhaholololol… you get the idea…)
A little action satisfaction Thursday morning, as the Honorable Minister of Education herself decides to pay our school a visit. Teachers and pupils clean franticly, only to hear a few hours later that she will not come until the next day!?!! TIA (this is Africa).
Tomorrow I will start teaching. English in Standard 1 and Art in all classes. I am excited to see how the children will react to me, as so far they giggle shyly and don’t dear looking me in the eyes.
Until next time. Sala hantle! Go well.
We arrived to our house in Mohale’s Hoek during one of the many torrential rainstorms here. Under the thunder and lightning we ran with all our bags and suitcases, while our drivers/helpers were having a nap in the front seat of the combi (minibus type car). Great, big house, and all fine after Me Lineo, our Lesotho-Wales Link representative, talked our landlady out of having her sister living in our garage!
Our neighborhood is very welcoming. Colleagues, neighbors and pupils are all looking out for us and we are not often left alone in the house… or when we go shopping. We’ve got many new friends, especially round dinner time, but people are also very good at sharing and are opening their homes for us any time.
A few days ago we had the Chief himself coming to meet us. Very comic, as he’d obviously had a good few drinks before coming and didn’t make too much senseJ.
The first day in town we were taken straight to the District Administrators office (picture a scene from “The Last King of Scotland”), as well as the police station and a meeting in the District Education Office. All to the benefit of our safety! And safe we feel, especially after receiving 4 emergency numbers to the police, in case we can’t get through on one of them…
The first week in school has been painfully slow, as the teachers don’t do their planning before the children arrive. This meaning the children are left to themselves a lot of the time. I’ve spent the week observing different classes, trying to learn the teacher’s names (with little luck so far… Me Moroahae, Me Matumelo, Me Mararararhaholololol… you get the idea…)
A little action satisfaction Thursday morning, as the Honorable Minister of Education herself decides to pay our school a visit. Teachers and pupils clean franticly, only to hear a few hours later that she will not come until the next day!?!! TIA (this is Africa).
Tomorrow I will start teaching. English in Standard 1 and Art in all classes. I am excited to see how the children will react to me, as so far they giggle shyly and don’t dear looking me in the eyes.
Until next time. Sala hantle! Go well.
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